Spotted
Hilary Riva (the chief executive of the British Fashion Council): hard at it on the fashion frontline, tackling press, designers, bidding farewell to Sir Stuart Rose and finding time after the Biba show on Sunday for some all-important shoe shopping at Venise Collection, conveniently placed next to the show venue. It’s a tough job, but someone’s got to do it.
The usual front row suspects were there: Kelly Osbourne, Lily Allen and Alexa Chung. But LFW is all about the unexpected, so no one batted an eyelid when Lord Coe took his seat at Jaeger. Might they be creating Team GB’s kits for the 2012 Olympics? The award for the most embarrassing moment goes to Kimberly Stewart, who edged Pixie Geldof off stage while being interviewed by a TV crew after the Biba show. Geldof looked awkward, Stewart didn’t even notice.
Scandal?
After the Ossie Clark relaunch on Monday, his sons – who did not attend – sought legal advice on how to reclaim their father’s name and prevent its “continued unauthorised exploitation” (in the PR’s words). They claim that the trademark was licensed without the family’s knowledge and consent. Quorum OC Limited, who instigated the label’s revival, say that it has all the necessary authorisations.
Super size me
It’s out with the salads and in with the pie and mash. On the first floor of the fashion tents is a pub, the New Gen Arms, which serves beer, hearty grub and even boasts a braces-wearing landlord. Good news for all those mourning the temporary loss of the fashionable Hawley Arms in Camden.
Swag
This year it’s out with the goodie bags and in with the free cotton ones. Mulberry’s version is not only a wicked trompe l’oeil of the infamous Roxanne bag, but is perfect for holding your tickets, flat shoes and the key accessory of the week, water. “I found love with a Geek at London Fashion Week” is one natty slogan – it alludes to the not-so-glamorous IT support team, the Geek Squad, but it also adorns their trademark tote. If you’re feeling super chic only Anya Hindmarch’s leather document holders will do – emblazoned with the owner’s name to avoid any front-row confusion.
Survivors
They came, they conquered, and like the humble cockroach not even a nuclear explosion could knock them down. These are the trends, seen on the street, that just won’t die:
Heavy fringes: even better if they get in your eyes;
Ankle boots:best with mini skirts and opaque tights;
The YSL Downtown: in patent leather (so you can wipe off the champagne);
Leggings: yes, they are still here, and becoming more ski-pant style with every show;
Slogan T-shirts:. . . and bags – everywhere;
Leather jackets: cropped, black and not a motorbike in sight;
Blazers: the more tuxedo-style, the better.
TRENDS
Hats
There have been as many on the front row as on the catwalk. Every permutation from the panama (in February?), the bowler, the porkpie, the flat cap and even a high-topped Peruvian style (in red). Needless to say, no one removed the headwear inside, not even in that most traditional of British venues, Claridge’s ballroom. This is London Fashion Week: they like to break the rules.
Sunglasses
Only the fashion folk do sunglasses in winter. OK, it has been quite sunny this week, but inside? In Claridge’s? Where you need a torch to read a menu even without shades? A step too far – or maybe someone’s hiding a hangover.
Amy Winehouse eye make-up
Predictable but inevitable. Cat’s flicks are de rigueur these days, and beehive hairdos aren’t far behind. Agyness Deyn wannabes – complete with blonde crops – were also back in force.
NHS reading glasses
Well not quite. Heavy framed, square glasses are this week’s pervasive nod to geek chic. Whether or not the lenses are prescription is another matter.
On the catwalk
Fringeing, architectural shoulders, short skirts, weird tights, ruffles (everywhere), military coats, black (it’s back), high-waisted trousers.
INSIDER'S GUIDE
Natalie Massenet, founder and chairman of net-a-porter.com: I can’t survive London Fashion Week without my team and my oversized Saba tote by Jimmy Choo (below). It is chic yet spacious enough to hold everything I need during the day.
Sara Berman, designer: Because I like to wear pieces from the new collection, I rely on Bodas underwear; it’s comfortable (the days on the stands at LFW are very long) and it gives me clean lines and doesn’t show through delicate fabrics.
Joan Burstein, the owner of Browns: I always have Holland & Barrett zinc lozenges in my handbag because they fend off the germs and keep me on top form during the mad rush that is LFW.
Leah Wood, the model and daughter of Rolling Stone Ronnie: I always carry lip balm around with me, Alba coconut cream to be precise. My lips get really dry at fashion week. And I love my new Choose Life bag by Katharine Hamnett. My mum Jo Woods’ Organics spray is also really refreshing, it picks you up when you’re tired of going from show to show.
Erin O’Connor, model: I can’t get through fashion week without pair of flip flops: you need to let your feet breathe in between wearing high heels. And when it gets cold I wear thick socks and Birkenstocks. I always carry around a packet of mints, because champagne does weird things to your breath.
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